Wine of the Month – July 2012: Jim Barry, The Florita Riesling, 2007, Clare Valley, Australia (The Wine Society £23.00)

July 8, 2012 11:49 am / by

Every so often I get blown away by a wine.  I was hoping this would happen to me this month with a new varietal to me, Godello from Northern Spain, as I tried Louro Godello, Valdeorras 2010, recommended by no less a wine luminary than Jancis Robinson.  However, this wine failed to wow me.  I began to worry that I would be struggling to find a suitable wine of the month for July as I am away for most of the month.  However, I need not have feared!  Last night I tried the Florita Riesling for the first time and I was well and truly blown away.  Expecting to be wowed by a new varietal instead I was taken aback by an old classic – riesling – one of the world’s great white varietals.

Here is an extract from the bottle notes: “This micro-batch super premium [they would say that!] Riesling is the fruit of … years of patience.  We selected individual rows where the terra rossa and loam barely cover the deep limestone below.  To guarantee the freshness of these precious grapes, we carefully picked batches to precisely fill our membrane press in the chill of night, and destemmed the bunches without crushing them.  Only the finest 38% of the juice was used in this pristine, beautifully citric Riesling.

On the nose it had characteristic New World Riesling notes of kerosene (not unpleasant) mixed with lashings of lime.  On the palate it was gloriously full-bodied with a steely, Chablis-like minerality and complex citrus flavours.  Delicious now it will drink until 2014.  I had this with a simple dish of fillet of sea bass pan-fried in butter and lemon juice – a perfect combination!



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